Post by DJDoubleLP on Mar 20, 2006 11:54:04 GMT -5
OK! 
So this is probably going to be a somewhat long post.....but it will be worth it for those who want to know about the install for dropsprings and sway bars. Now, the only problem is that I did not get any pics as the batteries were dead in my camera, and my hands were way too dirty to pick up the camera. So you are going to have to use your imagination.
Install
The install was pretty well straightforward. However, if you are not that mechanically inclined, I would advise not to do it yourself and have a professional or someone else do it for you. The instructions were somewhat off in the sizes that you need for some of the bolts. For example, the instructions say that the bolts holding the struts to the steering knuckle are 21mm...not so. They are actually 22mm. So be aware of that and make sure that you have an array of tools to choose from.
First thing I did was take all four tires off and put the car up on jacks at all four corners. This makes it a lot easier to get underneath the car.
So my buddy Steve and I decided to remove the front struts first. Quite easy, only the three nuts on the top, one bolt holding the brake line bracket to the strut, and the two big bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. YOU WILL NEED A BREAKER BAR. The factory does a fantastic job of tightening everything, so some leverage help is always good.
Next we removed the front sway bar. Now, in the instructions you have to drop the sub frame. At one point you have to loosen the four bolts holding the steering assembly. We decided not to do that, and the sway bar does come out, it just needs some help with a crow bar. It makes it a lot easier without removing the steering assembly bolts because they are on top of the sub-assembly and would be a pain to get undone.
So we got the stock sway bar out and the new one in. Very nice and not that hard to do. Put the sub-frame back on, and MAKE sure that the bolts are tourqued back up properly. A good tourque wrench is a MUST. You do not want to have a loose bolt on the sub-frame.
Next we put the new OEM struts in with the new springs. They go in as easy as they came out, you just have to make sure that everything is lined up properly, and the instructions were very clear on how everything should be.
We put the front tires on, took the front jacks out and left the rear jacks in.
We then proceeded with the rear sway bar. The bolts that hold the OEM sway in are super tight. You will definetely need a breaker bar and some muscle for these bolts. They even warn you in the instructions that they will be really tight. Got those two bolts out, swapped the OEM bar for the new one, and was done in about 10 minutes.
Then we did the rear struts. You do have to take all of the spare tire and the trays out to get at the two nuts on the top of the struts. Then there is a bolt on the outside on the top, and one nut at the bottom. Got those off, swapped the springs, and put them back in. Put the tires on, took the car off of the jacks, and was all done.
It took us about 6 hours to do everything. So it does take a good part of the day. I can not thank my buddy Steve enough for helping me out.
But the car looks AWESOME! I will have pics of the car as soon as I clean it.
Ride
The ride is really good. It is not that much more harsh then the stock ride of the XRS. It is very close to the same ride actually.
The car corners fantastic! Now remember, I am on winter tires right now so the grip is not fantastic to begin with, but you sure can notice the difference. Very little body roll. And the car does not squat to the back when accelerating hard like it did before.
It sure feels like a new car and was definetely worth the time and money. I really should have done this a long time ago, but it was worth the wait.
I would recommend the Hotchkis setup to anyone!
Remember to watch for pics as they will be coming soon!
So this is probably going to be a somewhat long post.....but it will be worth it for those who want to know about the install for dropsprings and sway bars. Now, the only problem is that I did not get any pics as the batteries were dead in my camera, and my hands were way too dirty to pick up the camera. So you are going to have to use your imagination. Install
The install was pretty well straightforward. However, if you are not that mechanically inclined, I would advise not to do it yourself and have a professional or someone else do it for you. The instructions were somewhat off in the sizes that you need for some of the bolts. For example, the instructions say that the bolts holding the struts to the steering knuckle are 21mm...not so. They are actually 22mm. So be aware of that and make sure that you have an array of tools to choose from.
First thing I did was take all four tires off and put the car up on jacks at all four corners. This makes it a lot easier to get underneath the car.
So my buddy Steve and I decided to remove the front struts first. Quite easy, only the three nuts on the top, one bolt holding the brake line bracket to the strut, and the two big bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. YOU WILL NEED A BREAKER BAR. The factory does a fantastic job of tightening everything, so some leverage help is always good.
Next we removed the front sway bar. Now, in the instructions you have to drop the sub frame. At one point you have to loosen the four bolts holding the steering assembly. We decided not to do that, and the sway bar does come out, it just needs some help with a crow bar. It makes it a lot easier without removing the steering assembly bolts because they are on top of the sub-assembly and would be a pain to get undone.
So we got the stock sway bar out and the new one in. Very nice and not that hard to do. Put the sub-frame back on, and MAKE sure that the bolts are tourqued back up properly. A good tourque wrench is a MUST. You do not want to have a loose bolt on the sub-frame.
Next we put the new OEM struts in with the new springs. They go in as easy as they came out, you just have to make sure that everything is lined up properly, and the instructions were very clear on how everything should be.
We put the front tires on, took the front jacks out and left the rear jacks in.
We then proceeded with the rear sway bar. The bolts that hold the OEM sway in are super tight. You will definetely need a breaker bar and some muscle for these bolts. They even warn you in the instructions that they will be really tight. Got those two bolts out, swapped the OEM bar for the new one, and was done in about 10 minutes.
Then we did the rear struts. You do have to take all of the spare tire and the trays out to get at the two nuts on the top of the struts. Then there is a bolt on the outside on the top, and one nut at the bottom. Got those off, swapped the springs, and put them back in. Put the tires on, took the car off of the jacks, and was all done.
It took us about 6 hours to do everything. So it does take a good part of the day. I can not thank my buddy Steve enough for helping me out.
But the car looks AWESOME! I will have pics of the car as soon as I clean it.
Ride
The ride is really good. It is not that much more harsh then the stock ride of the XRS. It is very close to the same ride actually.
The car corners fantastic! Now remember, I am on winter tires right now so the grip is not fantastic to begin with, but you sure can notice the difference. Very little body roll. And the car does not squat to the back when accelerating hard like it did before.
It sure feels like a new car and was definetely worth the time and money. I really should have done this a long time ago, but it was worth the wait.
I would recommend the Hotchkis setup to anyone!
Remember to watch for pics as they will be coming soon!
.
.
glad they are covering it under warranty. not here, they'd have said, nope you voided it with the springs....